Lace and Lacemaking

The book covers a wide range of historical and descriptive information on bobbin and needle laces, including how they were made and used.  After a brief reference to early lace/net forms found in Egyptian tombs, the author delves into a more extensive discussion of the more familiar European versions of lace from 1500s Flanders and Italy to the twentieth century. 

Information

Early laces and lacemaking in  England, Holland, Germany, Malta, Scandinavia, Russia, the United States, Canada, Scotland and Ireland. Adornment and fashion by monarch’s reign. How lace was worn and shaped. Protective laws and tariffs.  Smuggling.  Lacemaking as a cottage industry. Equipment including two chapters devoted to bobbins (bone, wood, thumpers, inlayed, dumps/bobtails, yak, trollies, domino, beaded, mother-n-babe, cow and calf, tinsel, church windows, birdcage, Honiton sticks, spangles,  and inscriptions—gifts from, people, events, courtship, deaths, violent deaths, songs and Bible verses and information for collectors on rarity and value). Lace tells. Children in the industry- their education, working conditions and their rhymes.  Machine-made laces 1770 to 1860 (Hammond net, Heathcoat’s twisted net, pusher machine, Leaver’s machine). “Other laces” briefly covered(tatting, knotting, macramé, tambour work, embroidered net, filet, knitted, crochet, Ayrshire work/Scotch hole, Teneriffe. Lacemaking revivals of the 1960s and 1970s. How-to recognize laces and century of popularity: Bobbin Laces: Belgium-(Flemish, Binche, Antwerp, Point d’Angleterre, Brussels, Duchesse, Rosaline); France- (Lille, Chantilly, Blonde, Valenciennes, Mechlin); Italy-(Genoa, Milanese, Malta, Cluny), England-(Torchon, Bucks, Beds, Yak, Honiton). Needlelaces: Italy-(Venetian Gros Point, Venetian Rose Point, Venetian Point de Niege, Venetian Flat Point, Coraline, Grounded Venice Point, Burano); France-(Point d’Alençon, Argentella, Point d’Argentan); Belgium-(Point de Gaze) and Holland-(Hollie Point).  Mounting, washing and mending lace. Glossary of terms. Museums with collections and suppliers at time of publication. 

Technical/Technique

Bobbin lace-whole-, half- and cloth stitch. 3-punch stitch to sew lace to fabric.  

Photos

Starfish, seahorse, jellyfish, peacock, lady with parasol, gentleman in high boots, cape, tights, hat and sword; Honiton floral sprigs, Teneriffe cutwork tablecloth, Queen Victoria’s wedding gown, handkerchiefs, machine lace edgings, crochet mat, Torchon baby jacket, Bebilla headdress, Buckinghamshire mat, Swedish edging, and Italian bobbin lace mat.

Drawings

(all fashion pieces): collars, shoe roses, boot lace, garters, ruffs, cuffs, whisk (large collar over the shoulders which pins in front), edged coif, cravat, fontange (high headdress), steinkirk (extra-long cravat fastened with a broach), lappets, chemise, and tea gown. 

Drawings/photos of lace equipment

goffering iron (for crimping ruffs), chad pots, candle globe/flask, bobbin lace pillows of various shapes, various pillow stands, prickers, pins , hooks, prickings, bobbin winders, bobbins, and spangles.